trad climbing

sus6

With exception to the line Legarsi alla Montagna (1982), trad climbing is a recent thing in Ulassai! In 2013 Maurizio Oviglia discovered the amazing cracks on the Spire of Su Sussiu and thought of climbing them only with friends, in pure clean climbing. For now there are only 5 cracks, but of great and indisputable quality. These were followed by the line “Cacciatore di Nulla” on the Torre dei Venti crag, climbed only with friends.

THE CRACKS OF SU SUSSIU

Formidable cracks on the spire of Su Sussiu and on the boulders originated from the landslide on which it is good to have a good technique of crack climbing. Otherwise, it becomes rather unfriendly! The anchors are bolted.

1 – AIKIDO – 20 m – 6c+/7a (5.11c)

First Ascent: Maurizio Oviglia (March 2015)

Sustained overhanging crack, with fist jams. Only the anchor is bolted

Descend from the anchor.

Material needed: friends from 0,75 to 4. Take triple of the 3 and the 4BD

2 – TAI CHI – 25 m – 7a/7a+ (5.11d)

First Ascent: Maurizio Oviglia (March 2015)

Overhanging cracks that always gets harder and more challenging with fist jams with off width at the end. Only the anchor is bolted .and a lanyard on a spike

Descend from the anchor

Material needed: friends from 0,5 to 5. Take triple of the 3 and the 4BD

3 – JU JITSU – 85 m – 6c+ (5.11b)

First Ascent: Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu (March 2016)

Three pitches that include all the possible techniques of crack climbing.

Abseil down from the summit of the Spire.

Material needed: double set of friends from 0,3 to 4BD

4 – WUSHU – 15 m – 6a+ (5.10a)

First Ascent: Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu (March 2016)

Diagonal crack to layback on a boulder just below the spire of Su Sussiu.

Descend from the anchor

Material needed: medium sized friends to put in the pockets, or big friends

5 – KARATE – 25 m – 6b (5.10b)

First Ascent: Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu (September 2015)

Crack with hand jams on the big cube below the road, below the crag of S’Accara.

Descend from the anchor

Material needed: double set of friends from 1 to 3 BD

6 – SECRET GARDEN – 20 m – 5c (5.9)

First Ascent: Matteo Giglio and Alessandra Gianatti (May 2016)

Chimney on the left of Karate

Descend from the anchor

Material needed: a set of friends from microfriends to 4BD

topofessuresusussiu

IL CACCIATORE DI NULLA (Torre dei Venti)

95 m – 6c max (6a obligatory)

Demanding line that follows the crack on the north side of the tower. The anchors are bolted and descend by abseiling down. Difficulty of the pitches: 6a, 6b +, 6c, 4c. Access: see the Torre dei Venti in Sport climbing

cacciatoretopo

LEGARSI ALLA MONTAGNA (Bruncu Pranedda)

95 m – VI/A1 (VII) max

First Ascent Corrado Pibiri, Ercole Ambu & c., september 1981. First free ascent Maurizio Oviglia e Paolo Contini 10 december 2015

First route opened in Ulassai, follow the obvious crack on the south face of Bruncu Pranedda, just over the village. Three pitches (V+, VII, VI), belays on bolts and some pegs in place. Take nut and a set of cams. Be careful to the rock, sometimes no so good

legarsi-alla-montagna-tracciato

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